Panagia Mountain Lodge

At 900 metres, Pano Panagia is one of the highest villages on the island, and the Panagiotis family's lodge is its warmest welcome: a stone-and-timber house with a wood-panelled lounge, a log fire that never seems to go out between October and April, and a kitchen that turns village produce into dinners worth planning your day around.

This is walking country — cedar valleys, the Kykkos road, and ridge paths with views over both coasts on a clear day. There's a tackle box by the door in case the trout pond takes your fancy.